Ghosts of the US past
A three-minute read
Dear Reader,
Einen frohen Leichnam to you all ;-)
I am in the city of Bamberg at the moment and stopped for a beer at a Keller on the outskirts of town after a long day’s hiking in the Fränkische Schweiz.
When I came to order my second beer (ein Dunkles), the barman asked whether I was British. When I replied in the affirmative, he told me that he was born in the UK, before landing in Bamberg via Florida. “I’m stuck here” was his less than jovial assessment of his situation.
His father was a US soldier and he’d grown up on US bases around Europe and the US. He is a reminder that American soldiers and their offspring have put down roots in various somewhat obscure locations across Europe, even as the power of their country has receded in recent decades.
Many Germans might not be able to point to Bamberg on a map (which would be a shame as it is the most picturesque town in the country) but for thousands of US citizens it is named on their passports as their place of birth.
The US military had a presence here for almost 70 years until they closed their base in 2014. The official reason given at the time was that “our nation has asked us to conserve resources in this challenging time.” A few days later a nearby base at Schweinfurt also lowered its flag for the final time.
It is quite incredible to think today, but 200,000 US troops were based in West Germany just three decades ago. That number has dwindled to around 38,000 soldiers stationed in five bases today, as successive US Presidents have relocated forces to the Pacific and the Middle East.
Donald Trump, notoriously, wanted to blow the ultimate raspberry to Berlin by cutting troop numbers by 12,000 in one fell swoop. But Joe Biden reversed that decision upon coming to power this year. He even announced an increase in troop numbers… by 500. Symbolic acts of solidarity seem to be all that Washington is prepared to offer these days.
Still, the decline is relative. USAG Bavaria is the largest US base on foreign soil. It is home to 10,000 soldiers and encompasses 390 square kilometres of land.
According to newspaper reports from 2014, the people of Bamberg were sad to see a beloved employer and dear friends leave town. But time moves on quickly. There is no visible trace of nostalgia for the red, white and blue left in the town - just an grey, mothballed barracks on the eastern side of town.
What else is happening?
On Sunday the eastern state of Saxony-Anhalt is voting for a new state parliament. Polling shows that the AfD could emerge as the largest party. At the least they look like improving on their vote share of 24 percent in 2016. If the AfD were to win they would have the chance to try and put together a coalition government. Such a result would set a benchmark, potentially paving the way for the ultra-conservative party to become the strongest political force in eastern Germany. In reality though, no other party will even enter talks with them due to reputed links between some of their members and neo-Nazis. The parties that currently rule in Magdeburg (CDU, SPD and Greens) should gain enough votes to be able to cobble together another coalition.
The European Court of Justice has published one of its perennial rulings against Germany for failing to comply with EU rules on nitric oxide emissions. Diesel engines are seen as the main culprit for this form of pollution. The last time such a ruling was issued several German cities ended up banning older diesel engines from the inner cities as the German Environmental Help NGO pursued local governments through the courts with a zealot’s determination. As a driver of a diesel car myself I can only say that the rules that were brought in at the time have made zero difference to my life (although there are apparently several streets I’m not allowed to drive down in Berlin.) The German government’s rather blithe response to the EU ruling - electric cars are on their way, chill out!
J.L.